Home/ Fashion & Style/ 20 May 2026
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15 Sources Updated 66d ago Morning Edition 2 min read

Chanel Grows Slowly: Fashion Finally Learns Patience

8% sales growth for 2025 sounds modest until you remember that modest used to be called sustainable, back when fashion cared about longevity over quarterly reports.

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The luxury industry spent a decade pretending infinite growth was possible, and now reality is setting in with all the grace of a poorly fitted dress. Chanel's 1.8% sales growth for 2025 sounds modest until you remember that modest used to be called sustainable, back when fashion cared about longevity over quarterly reports.

Leena Nair's interview with Vogue reads like someone finally admitting the emperor's new clothes were always imaginary. "Chanel-mania," she calls it, as if the obsession with quilted bags and tweed jackets is a fever that broke rather than a business model that worked. The French house is learning what the rest of us already knew: you can't manufacture scarcity forever without eventually becoming genuinely scarce.

Meanwhile, the rental revolution continues with Isle of Monday promising access to "fashion history once reserved for celebrities." Tom Ford-era Gucci, Carrie Bradshaw's Fendi, Aaliyah's Alaïa—all available to rent, which is either democracy in action or the final commodification of cultural memory. Probably both. The mythology of ownership is dissolving into the practicality of access, and suddenly your closet doesn't need to be a museum.

Barbara Palvin is redefining maternity style at Cannes, which mostly means she's proving that pregnancy doesn't require hiding behind tent dresses and apologetic styling. Revolutionary, apparently, in 2026. She's turning out look after look while visibly pregnant, and the fashion press is treating this like she invented the concept of dressing a changing body. The bar was underground.

Diesel launching a women's fragrance with Dove Cameron as the face feels like someone read "target Gen Z consumers" in a manual and decided authenticity was optional. "Smells Like Gen Z" is either brilliant self-awareness or accidental honesty about how calculated youth marketing has become. Cameron's casting makes sense—she's famous enough to matter but not famous enough to overshadow the product, which is the sweet spot for fragrance campaigns.

The vintage rental trend isn't just about sustainability or accessibility—it's about the cultural shift from owning fashion history to experiencing it. We've moved from collecting to curating, from having to being. The clothes remain the same; the relationship changes everything.

Fashion is finally growing up, learning that slow growth might be the only growth that lasts. The fever dream of endless expansion is breaking, and what's left looks surprisingly like wisdom.

Editor's Note
The real question isn't whether luxury can grow sustainably — it's whether women will keep buying dreams they can't afford to impress people who aren't paying attention.
Dua Mifsud
Dua Mifsud
Culture, Fashion & Gen Z Editor
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Ilhan Irem Yuce
Edited by Ilhan Irem Yuce · Chief Editor, News Beast